Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Where to eat lunch in Paris, Christmas week?

I'll be there just for a day trip (from London) and want a very authentic Parisian meal, no tourists. I won't have time to travel far fom the center of things, and may have a teen girl with me. No Guide Michelin Three Stars, please!



These are small bistros which generally have a small three to five-course menu ranging from 25-35?and a reasonably priced wine list.





Lntredgeu


83 Rue Laugier 75017 M: Porte de Champerret (01 40 54 97 24)


My current favorite. The chef has a good pedigree, and is cooking up a storm for just 28?for dinner. The cooking here is hearty and delicious, and with a finesse that separates them from the rest of the field. The room is cramped but very cheerful and charming. One of the best price/value rapport in the city.





Lurcine


92, rue Broca 75013 Paris (01 47 07 13 65)


A delicious new bistro, overseen by Yves Camdeborde of La Rgalade fame. Very cute little space, run by a very agreeable African lady who speaks perfect English.





Ls Moelle


3, Rue Vasco de Gama 75015 M: Lourmel (01 45 57 27 27)


My parennial favorite. The chef is a Constant protg. The menu here is still very refined, with at least 5 courses, each complex in its simplicity. They are on the higher price end of this group, with the dinner menu at 38? but worth every penny.





Le Repaire de Cartouche


8, boulevard des filles du calvaire 75011 M:St Sebastien Froissard (01 47 00 25 86)


Here is another Constant protg, in a space that looks like it could be an old hunting lodge. The cooking here is big and bold.





Chez Michel


10, Rue de Belzunce 75010 M: Poissonnire ( 01 44 53 06 20)


Yes, yet another Constant protg, with roots from Brittany which show in the menu. When I am here I always order something from that region, his yummy Kig-ha-farz, a pot au feu of sort, with pork jowls (the Kig bit) and curious doughy dumplings with sweet raisins (that would be the Farz bit). A great spot for a meal before/after the Eurostar.





Lrdoise


28 rue du Mont Thabor 75001 M: Beaubourg/Les Halles (01 42 96 28 18)


An ever popular spot for Anglo gastro tourists, but has managed to not let the quality goes down the drain even with the mainly non-local clientele.





Caf Constant


139, rue Saint-Dominique 75007 (01 47 53 73 34)


The first outgrowth in Christian Constant plan to take over rue Dominique. A simple neighbourhood bistro serving simple and good food. The clientele is a mix between high-rolling Le Figaro readers to local workmen.





Les Fables de la Fontaine


131 rue Saint-Dominique 75007 (01 44 18 37 55)


The newest of Christian Constant places on rue Dominique. This one focuses on fish and seafood. A lovely spot for a deliciously fishy lunch.





Mon Vieil Ami


69 Rue St Louis en l'Ile 75004 M:Cit (01 40 46 01 35)


Another favorite. This is a bistro outpost of the fabulous three-star Le Buerehisel in Strasbourg. The menu is not entirely Alsatian, but gives a nod to the general direction. Also on the higher price end of this scale (dinner menu 38?, and in a more refined -and highly designed- atmosphere than all the others. It is on the charming Ile St.Louis from where you could take a romantic and enchanting walk along the Seine to digest the meal.





Lmi Jean


27, rue Malar 75007 M:Alma Marceau (01 47 05 86 89)


The chef here was once a sous chef at La Rgalade while Yves Camdeborde was still cooking. The menu is very similar to La Rgalade, robust, hearty food. They do very good game (wild meats) during the season.





la biche aux bois


45 Ave Ledru-Rollin 75012 M: Gare de Lyon (01 43 43 34 38)


This place is always packed with locals. The tables are so closed together you think you are eating from a communal table ot that there anything wrong with it. The menu is completely void of pretension, the cooking is perhaps simpler than the others on this list, but no less tasty, and a great value at only 25?





Lvant Gout


26 rue Bobilot 75013 M:Place d'Italie (Auguste Blanqui exit) (01 53 80 24 00)


My friend Mr.Naughton is in love with the incredible 12.50?lunch menu here. You get an entree, plat, a glass of wine, and coffee, all included for the price, the bargain of Paris in my opinion.





La Table de Lucullus


129 rue Legendre 75017 M: La Fourche (01 40 25 02 68)


Clotilde introduced me to this place, a favorite of hers. I've only had foie gras and chocolate here (such a hard life I lead), but they were so lovely as to warrant a mention in this list. The affable young chef Nicolas Vagnon is reportedly a wiz at fish and seafood. His specialty dessert, chocolate saucer with ginger ice cream is a delectable treat.

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